17 May Much charm
We didn’t come to Nancy along the Moselle, but through the suburbs, and that’s how we left it. So we crossed Nancy from north to south on urban, congested roads. After about 12 km we met again the chosen bike path, the “voie bleue”, looked for a place to sleep and found it 3 km further on.
Unfortunately, Johanna cannot get used to wild camping. It scares her too much, makes her uncomfortable, and makes it very hard for her to sleep. But also this night passed sometime in the morning and we went on our way. And the path was again dreamlike, so beautiful that it should have been boring. Because it was always the same scenario, on the far right a road or a track, then came a green strip with hedges and so, then the Mosel, then another about 80 cm wide green strip, then the walkable or bikeable asphalt strip, left hand was about 1.5 m wide green strip with trees, left hand to this a channel and much further you could not see.
We stopped at a bench, made coffee, had breakfast and then walked on and on in this fairy tale world. The destination was supposed to be a campground, which we would have reached after 20 km if it had still existed. Johanna was down and so upset that she didn’t even want to look at this place. But this place was brilliant, the old structures of the campground still there, 2 m high hedges, no one would have discovered us there and directly on the river. Thereupon I became sickly and there was again hefty argument and 8 silent kilometers.
The next destination was again a campground, one with a website and listed on ACSI. Two kilometers further we stood in front of its closed gates and found out that this 2022 treats itself to a renovation, but it does not consider it necessary to announce this. I looked at my hiking app and found a hotel in town. Charmes is the name of the village, but at first it did not live up to its name, because the hotel was closed, also the 2 other hotels were closed. Quite resigned and finished, because we had already 32km, at over 30 degrees in the legs, we settled down in a cafe. Even though the boss only understood French, I managed to ex 4 different cold drinks. The best of these was a beer mixed with frozen red fruit. I liked the cafe, it was simple, with a very pleasant atmosphere to me. Refreshed, I checked booking.com and actually found an apartment. By means of google maps we asked the café guests if this address really exists, and after positive confirmation we booked it, walked the kilometer and were salvation happy to have a shelter.
It was already after 20:00, so I was really glad that everything was done by code and keypressor. We were so broad that we booked two nights at once. We enjoyed the day of rest, when there was supposed to be another storm, but it probably didn’t find a place to stay and so moved on unnoticed. In any case, the day and night did us and the bed bugs good. My back, stomach, neck and arms looked like … and itched as if an ant army ran over them.